Die Sonne kitzelt an den Nebelschwaden, die das Schiff schon den ganzen Morgen in ein dichtes Weiß hüllen. Wasserdampf wabert um den Haarkranz des einzigen Badegastes im Whirlpool. Auf dem Aussichtsdeck spazieren ein paar Passagiere an der Reling entlang und gucken in die Wellen, die die Costa neoRiviera ins Wasser gräbt. Sehr viel weiter reicht die Sicht noch nicht.

Gestern Nachmittag haben wir Kurs auf Barcelona genommen. Überwiegend kleine Häfen, lange Liegezeiten, individuelle Programme, das ist das Konzept der “Slow Cruises”, der langsamen Kreuzfahrten von Costa. Auch die Schiffe sind kleiner, sagt Hanja Maria Richter, Pressesprecherin des Konzerns und mit uns auf Mittelmeer-Fahrt: “Hier geht es geruhsam zu.”

SlowCruise_2 SlowCruise_3 SlowCruise_4

So haben sich Daniel und Daniela das vorgestellt. Die 26-Jährige und ihr 31-jähriger Freund aus Ulm senken den Altersdurchschnitt an Bord deutlich – normalerweise liegt der bei etwa 55 Jahren. “Eine Kreuzfahrt hat mich schon lange gereizt”, sagt die Reisekauffrau. “Ich finde es toll, viel zu sehen, ohne den Koffer immer wieder ein- und auspacken zu müssen.” Ihr Freund ergänzt: “Ich brauche im Urlaub kein Halligalli, das habe ich schon daheim. Und wenn wir Action wollen, kriegen wir die in der Stadt.”

Dass das Publikum auf dem Schiff international ist, gefällt den beiden. Daniel erzählt vom Frühstück mit einer Gruppe Italiener am Tisch – die einen konnten kein Italienisch, die anderen kein Englisch: “Wir haben uns mit Händen und Füßen verständigt und viel gelacht.” Unter den knapp 1400 Passagieren sind vor allem Italiener, viele Deutschsprachige, Franzosen und Briten. Auch die Crew ist bunt gemischt: “Wir haben 35 Nationen an Bord”, sagt Hanja.

I Wayan aus Indonesien ist Cabin Steward und seit neun Jahren dabei. Jetzt will er nicht mehr: “Die Arbeit wird immer mehr und der Lohn immer weniger”, sagt der 29-Jährige. Er würde gerne in die Heimat zurückkehren. Nur: “Außer auf dem Schiff habe ich keine Berufserfahrung.” Er lächelt zaghaft, deutet auf die Handtücher, die er im Arm hält und wendet sich wieder seiner Arbeit zu.

Bis Barcelona sind es noch ein paar Stunden. Das Meer scheint weiterhin friedlich unter einer weißen Decke zu schlafen. Eine gute Zeit, um den Spa zu testen. Der Thermalbereich ist hell und freundlich, aber sehr klein. Türkisches Bad, Sauna, Kamillebad – 15 Euro für die Tageskarte sind bei dem Angebot etwas viel. Ein Stundenpreis wäre besser, denn ein, zwei Stündchen lässt es sich hier prima aushalten. In den riesigen Wärmesesseln könnte man glatt wegdämmern. Während der heiße Stein den Rücken wärmt, kann man durch das Panoramafenster zusehen, wie sich draußen der Nebel lichtet. Die Küstenlinie ist schon schemenhaft zu erkennen.

Spa-Managerin Susana Vasconcelos liebt den Rhythmus an Bord: “Für uns gibt es keine Wochentage, sondern Stadttage oder Seetage.” Mit 35 wollte sie eigentlich “aufhören”, nach Madeira zurückkehren, wo sie herkommt. Den Plan hat sie an ihrem 35. Geburtstag verworfen. “Ich mag die Abwechslung”, sagt Susana: “Heute ist Barcelona-Tag!”

Landausflüge aller Art kann man auf den Schiffen der neoCollection bei einem Concierge buchen. In der katalanischen Großstadt geht das aber auch gut auf eigene Faust. Wer wie Daniel und Daniela zwischendurch Action möchte, ist hier richtig.

Im hippen Viertel “Born” kann man sich wunderbar durch die mittelalterlichen Gassen treiben lassen. Lauter kleine, junge Designerläden sind in die alten Geschäftshäuser gezogen, es gibt viel Handgemachtes und lokal Produziertes. In Miquels Wollgeschäft “All you knit is love” leuchten Knäuel in allen Farben – “Naturfarben”, betont der Katalane. Ein paar Straßen weiter verkaufen zwei junge Frauen Ledertaschen und Schmuck. Ihre Werkstätten haben sie hinten im Laden, die Kunden können ihnen bei der Produktion zuschauen.

Vor einem unscheinbaren Gebäude stehen Menschen in einer langen Schlange an. “Hier gibt es gutes und billiges Essen”, sagt Pedro. Der Peruaner ist seit sechs Jahren Türsteher bei “Can Paixano”. In der traditionsreichen Bar ist es immer voll. Gelächter erfüllt den Raum. Von der Decke hängen Dutzende Schinken herab. Um den Tresen zu erreichen, muss man sich durch die gut gelaunte Menschenmenge quetschen. Fast alle haben in der einen Hand ein Weinglas, randvoll mit rosa Cava, und in der anderen ein Brötchen mit Fleisch oder Wurst.

Barcelona_1 Barcelona_3

Ähnlich geschäftig geht es wenig später in der Schiffsküche zu. Nicht mehr lange bis zum Abendessen, und dem kommt bei den Slow Cruises eine besondere Rolle zu: keine Buffets, stattdessen Service am Tisch. “Unsere Gäste sollen sich Zeit nehmen fürs Essen”, sagt Hanja. Die Menüs entwickelt Küchenchef Roberto Scordo zusammen mit einem Team von der Universität der gastronomischen Wissenschaften in Pollenzo. Sie wurde gegründet von Carlo Petrini, dem “Vater” der Slow-Food-Bewegung.

Die Gerichte sind schlicht, regional und traditionell. Heute steht die Küche Kalabriens auf der Karte. Da braucht der Chef keine Konzeptionshilfe: “Das ist Mama-Essen!”, sagt Scordo und lächelt übers ganze Gesicht. “Pasta ‘ncasciata” hat der Italiener schon als kleiner Junge gegessen, Nudelauflauf mit Fleischbällchen, Würstchen und gekochten Eiern.

Als Nachtisch erwartet die Gäste “Varchiglia”, Schokoladenkuchen mit Mandeln. Der wird in Scordos Lieblingsabteilung zubereitet: der Patisserie. “Sieht man ja”, sagt der Koch glucksend und fasst sich an seinen stattlichen Bauch. Die Patisserie ist die einzige Abteilung, die von einer Frau geleitet wird. Claudia Sanasi braucht nicht viele Worte. Sie hält dem Küchengast einfach einen Teller voll Erdbeeren im Schokomantel hin.

SlowCruise_5

“Das Essen ist überwältigend”, sagt später im Restaurant Tom aus Liverpool. Der 84-Jährige reist alleine, seit seine Frau vor fünf Jahren gestorben ist: “Solange ich noch kann.” Er erzählt begeistert von einer Radtour durch Deutschland, kurz nach dem Krieg, und wie freundlich er überall empfangen wurde.

Nach dem Abendessen lässt der Engländer den Tag beim “Stargazing” (Sternegucken) auf dem Oberdeck ausklingen. Daniel und Daniela nehmen noch einen Drink in der Bar Positano. Nach dem Barcelona-Tag ist die dunkle, samtige Jazzstimme der brasilianischen Sängerin Gisele, nur begleitet von der Gitarre ihres Freundes Daniel, genau das Richtige, um wieder in den Rhythmus der Kreuzfahrt zurückzufinden.

Information:

■ Allgemeine Auskünfte erteilt Costa Kreuzfahrten, Am Sandtorkai 39, 20457 Hamburg, Telefon 040 570 12 13 14.

■ Anreise: Im nächsten Jahr bietet Costa zum Beispiel die Tour “Die schönsten Mittelmeerinseln” an. Sie führt von Savona über Portoferraio/Isola D’Elba, Capri, Salerno, Catania, Malta, Trapani, Olbia-Costa Smeralda, Propriano und Toulon wieder nach Savona. Eine Busanreise nach Savona ist bei Costa von Mannheim aus buchbar, ab 63 Euro einfache Fahrt.

■ Übernachten: Die Costa neoRiviera verfügt über 624 Kabinen, davon 94 Suiten mit privatem Balkon. Es gibt ein Spa mit Fitnesscenter, ein Schwimmbecken und Whirlpools auf dem Oberdeck. Preisbeispiel: “Die schönsten Mittelmeerinseln”, elf Tage ab/bis Savona, ab 1099 Euro pro Person in der Innenkabine, zuzüglich Serviceentgelt von 9 Euro pro Person und Tag. Im Preis nicht enthalten sind Getränkepakete, Ausflüge und andere Sonderleistungen, die individuell dazu buchbar sind.

■ Essen und Trinken: Auf der Costa neoRiviera gibt es drei Restaurants, darunter ein Buffet-Grill und eine Pizzeria. Das Essen ist sehr gut. In sechs Bars, davon zwei auf dem Oberdeck, gibt es Kaffeespezialitäten und Drinks aller Art zu normalen Preisen.

■ Unterhaltung: Im großen Theater geht allabendlich eine Show über die Bühne, es gibt ein Kasino, ein Shopping-Center und Programm auf dem Oberdeck wie in den Bars.

■ Unbedingt machen: Der Thermalbereich ist sehr klein und überschaubar, vor allem das Türkische Bad und die Wärmesessel im Ruhebereich sind aber schön und entspannend (Tageskarte 15 Euro). Zu empfehlen sind außerdem die (kostenpflichtigen) Behandlungen bei den sehr professionellen und freundlichen Masseuren.

Erschienen am 21. November 2015 auf RNZ Online

Diesen Artikel gibt es hier als PDF.

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  412. you are truly a excellent webmaster. The site loading speed is incredible. It sort of feels that you are doing any unique trick. Moreover, The contents are masterpiece. you’ve performed a great task on this subject!

  413. Its like you read my mind! You appear to know a lot about this, like you wrote the book in it or something. I think that you could do with a few pics to drive the message home a little bit, but instead of that, this is great blog. A fantastic read. I’ll certainly be back.

  414. I’m really impressed with your writing skills and also with the layout on your blog. Is this a paid theme or did you modify it yourself? Anyway keep up the excellent quality writing, it is rare to see a nice blog like this one today..